Prusiking sucks

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Flynny
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Joined: 22 May 2018, 16:10
Full name: Craig Flynn
City: The 'Go
State: New South Wales

Prusiking sucks

Post by Flynny » 19 Jun 2018, 21:55

We all know prusiking sucks.

I've been a bit lax in practicing it the last few years but I did a training day with UBMBWC where Guy Wittig showed us a slightly different set up that made things much easier and quicker.

Lo and behold last weekend on a trip, https://sleepwhenwearedead.wordpress.co ... -revisited , we had a rope get stuck. It was the first time I've ever been in the situation where we needed to prusik back up to free a rope and every one was volunteering to be the one to go up but I jumped in "i'll show youse an easy way..."

Only then I had a brain block and stuffed it up and while I was trying to work out the set up Ev jumped on the rope and up she went using the standard technique.

Anyhoo. as soon as Ev gets back down the light bulb goes on and I realise the simple thing I was forgetting. So today I spent a bit of time in the shed practicing with Tal and I thought I'd put together a quick video to share.

To some of you it is probably a well known technique and self explanitory but it's new for me.

On my waist I'm using my usual descender in ascent mode, it's a Kong Robot which is just an older version of the hydrabot and IMO still superior to the newer design in a couple of ways.
https://www.kong.it/en/2-products/items ... p269-robot

For the training day Guy was using a Mirco-traxion instead, https://www.petzl.com/US/en/Sport/Pulleys/MICRO-TRAXION,

In the video I also mention you can set an figure 8 up in ascent mode and I'll post a link below to show how that is set up and I'd imagine the same set up would work on crittrs, Piranas, Okas etc but suggest you try it out and practice it in safe situation before attempting to ascend a 30m overhang on it.

You could probably also use a couple of carabiners and a garda hitch, but I wouldn't recommend it.

Up top I'm using a tibloc, https://www.petzl.com/US/en/Sport/Ascenders/TIBLOC for a single rope ascent and a standard prusik knot on the double rope.

I should say this isn't meant to replace proper training with a capable trainer so as I said above practice it in a safe, controlled environment before taking it out into the real world

Even in the video you can see me having to think about what to do so practice practice practice until it becomes natural.

Oh, I also mis-pronouce everything from prusik to tibloc to microtraxion......

Maybe I do it on purpose to annoy the pedants or more probably I'm an uneducated bogan.... Aye.

Anyhoo




OK I've just scoured the net for a vid on setting up the 8 as an auto locking ascender and this is the best video I've been able to find. I'm positive there are better ones out there but I couldn't find them and TBH I didn't look that hard




Flynny
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Full name: Craig Flynn
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Re: Prusiking sucks

Post by Flynny » 19 Jun 2018, 23:25

Slava pointed out a grigri would work well on the waist too

johnmurray49
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Full name: John Murray
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Re: Prusiking sucks

Post by johnmurray49 » 20 Jun 2018, 13:21

Nice practice area Craig. I have an Oak tree that I use for practice outdoors. This system also works with a Rap Rack. An advantage of this system is that you can utilize the people down the bottom of the abseil as they can pull and release the abseil rope as you require it. This would allow you to concentrate on the top prussic device to move forward.

Flynny
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Re: Prusiking sucks

Post by Flynny » 20 Jun 2018, 13:33

Thanks John
I had some one ask about using rak style descenders for this. I'm not familiar with them. Can you (or anyone) give an explanation on how to use them in ascent?

johnmurray49
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Re: Prusiking sucks

Post by johnmurray49 » 20 Jun 2018, 14:56

Just the same as your device. I just reverse the rope and loop it over the first bar and it works the same as your device.

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T2
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Re: Prusiking sucks

Post by T2 » 22 Jun 2018, 12:45

Great video Craig. And a good reminder to get out and practice these skills in the quiet winter months. It's been years since I had to prusik in anger. It definitely takes a lot more thought when you're tired, cold, and annoyed at having stuck a rope.

What I've never done before us loop the rope back up to turn it into a pulley system. That's a great addition. As John said, it also opens up the option of people at the bottom assisting, which could be handy when it's a long, difficult ascent. Having someone at the bottom holding the rope may also assist with how much you swing about when free hanging.

One other question -- and it's not really something for this part of the forum -- but I'd love to hear more about why you think the Robot is better than the Hydrobot. I haven't used a Robot, so I don't have any first-hand experience of how they differ.

Slava
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Re: Prusiking sucks

Post by Slava » 25 Jun 2018, 21:31

johnmurray49 wrote:
20 Jun 2018, 14:56
Just the same as your device. I just reverse the rope and loop it over the first bar and it works the same as your device.
John, have you got any link to a video on how to do that or at least some photos. Not clear to me. Thanks.

Skinner
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Re: Prusiking sucks

Post by Skinner » 08 Jan 2019, 10:02

Thanks for the video flynny.
I like the use of the pulley. I would feel better with a loop of cord as a backup rather than a single line, but that might just be me.

With the figure 8 setup you can’t use the pulley system but you can easily switch to descending. Can you switch over easily to descending with your method? Or do you need to re-rig the descender?

I’ll have to practice using my rap rack and see how it goes.

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