Arethusa Canyon v3a3III*

Post Reply
Posts: 4
Joined: 02 Mar 2020, 09:31
Full name: Alex Motyka
City: Sydney
State: New South Wales

Arethusa Canyon v3a3III*

Post by alex.motyka » 16 Apr 2020, 19:21

Map: 8930-1S KATOOMBA
Height: 50m
Drop: 26m
Rock: Sandstone
Rope: 2 x 30m
Area: South Grose
Anchors: Slings
Flash flood: Low
Length: 600m
Season: October - April
Car shuffle: No
Time: 4 - 8 hours
Wetsuits: Required

A high quality canyon with everything. Close to Leura this canyon includes two abseils of 26 metres on approach and a single abseil of 15 metres in canyon actual. Navigation in the canyon is straightforward with many scrambles, jumps (optional), swims and even a small cave along the length of the canyon. The canyon has several opportunities for impressive photographs. The exit involves three small rock climbs (Ewbank grade 16, 16, 19) which have been rigged with ropes and extra bolts to assist non-climbers and significantly lower the grades (approx 10). Basic lead climbing and top belay skills are required. Take 5 quickdraws.

Arethusa Canyon.png
Arethusa Canyon.png (1.35 MiB) Viewed 5909 times
By car
  • Straightforward access from Leura along Mt Hay Road (dirt road - does not require 4WD).
  • Park at about MGA 54233 71349 / -33.66932, 150.34927
By foot
  • Walk north on an old closed fire trail until MGA 54040 71766 / -33.6655, 150.3473
  • Branch right / north-east onto a footpad (flagged with pink tape in 2020)
  • Please do not use the previous canyon entry point from the end of the firetrail that proceeds through a sensitive wetland
  • Follow the small path along the ridge in a northerly direction. When the ridge drops off more sharply at about MGA 54179 72449, descend westward down a poorly pronounced ridge.
  • Find the first anchor at about MGA 53966 72500 / -33.6589, 150.3467
Route Description
  • Canyon entry involves two sequential dry abseils of approximately 25m each (abseil 1 and 2) down the canyon cliffline
  • Anchor 1 is a rope sling around a rock bollard
  • Anchor 2 is a sling around a tree immediately at the end of abseil one
  • After abseil 2, walk northwards down slope towards creek. Wetsuits can be donned near here
  • Abseil 3 is the start of the canyon and is approximately 15m in height (from highest anchor to creek floor)
  • Abseil 3 anchor slings exist on River Right, River Left and River Centre (inside a small boulder cave) (in flow)
  • Proceed down canyon for 500m negotiating scrambles, jumps (optional) and swims
  • Check water depth before attempting any jumps due to submerged hazards
  • The exit is to the right on approaching Arethusa Falls, up the spur that divides Arethusa from the river entering right (Alpheus Canyon)
  • Proceeding down Arethusa Falls will result in a very very long walk out through the Grose Valley.
  • Bolt plates are not required. All bolts are eye bolts or hangers. The remaining carrot bolt on pitch 1 is used as a foothold.
  • Depending on party size the exit route can take several hours
  • Exit route involves 3 small rock climbs of about 6m each, and 3 hand over hand scrambles/climbs
  • Rock climbing pitches have a Ewbank grade of 16, 16, 19.
  • The rock climbing routes are closely bolted and rigged with rope handlines to assist inexperienced climbers and reduce the grade significantly (approx Ewbank grade of 10).
  • Participants should still be belayed for safety
  • Rock climbing shoes are not required
  • No more than 5 quickdraws are required
  • The hand over hand scrambles/climbs are rigged with ropes to assist canyoners.
Exit Description
Standard exit (dry)
  • Find the first pitch on the spur between Arethusa and Alpheus
  • The first pitch can be divided into two short pitches at a ledge. This can aid pack hauling and party speed.
  • From the tree at the top of the first pitch, follow the path up to the cliff face and to the right
  • The second pitch goes up about 5m then traverses left
  • From the tree at the top of the second pitch, follow the path left as it traverses under the cliff and around the corner towards Alpheus canyon
  • The third pitch of about 6m is on the right and climbs up to a ledge. Alternatively you can avoid this climb by taking the Alphius canyon exit variation. See notes below.
  • After the third pitch, follow the traverse line along the ledge, then find the first handline to scramble up a 10 metre slippery gully
  • After the gully walk up to the next cliffline, then proceed left, following the cliffline.
  • Find the second handline, to climb a short vertical face approximately 2.5 meters tall.
  • Proceed up to the next cliffline, then take one of two options.
  • Left option (more difficult): Proceed left until you find a third handline with a one metre rock pile to assist climbing the 2.5 metre overhang. Walk up to the next cliffline then proceed right. Find a break in the cliffline to climb up to the ridge.
  • Right option (easier): Proceed right along the cliffline till you find a third handline for a small 4 meter climb. Walk left for a couple of meters and climb a 1.5 metre step. Proceed right and up to the ridge.
  • Enjoy the view. Walk up the ridge to pick up the entry trail.
Alpheus canyon reverse variation (wet)
This variation allows you to experience the notable portion of Alpheus canyon. It contains a number of beautiful pools of which only the first is a required swim.
  • Follow the standard exit track notes until the base of the third rock climbing pitch
  • From the base of the third rock climbing pitch proceed to walk up Alpheus canyon for a couple meters towards a small deep pool
  • Swim across the pool towards the river left (right if looking upstream) where a log can be used to climb up between two boulders
  • Proceed approximately 10 meters to a handline assisted climb on the river right (left if looking upstream)
  • The hand over hand climb is split into two parts by a small ledge. The second half has a couple of bolts to assist the climb.
  • After the hand over hand climb head along the river right approximately 30 meters to edge of a large deep pool with a ~6m waterfall
  • This waterfall is the first waterfall in Alpheus canyon and has a handline for descent. It is known to be slippery and it is not advised to climb it.
  • Cross the creek to the river left between two large boulders with a crack between them
  • A small scramble on the river left will bring you to the ledge at the top of the third rock climbing pitch mentioned in the standard exit
  • Walk downstream on the river left along the ledge bypassing everything you’ve just traveled up, until you hit the first handline scramble up a 10 meter slippery gully described in the standard exit
  • From here follow the standard exit track notes to finish the exit

Post Reply