Search found 15 matches

by Kosta
13 Jan 2019, 23:26
Forum: Gear questions, suggestions and reviews
Topic: Why knots drastically weaken ropes
Replies: 3
Views: 129

Re: Why knots drastically weaken ropes

Abseiling on a rating of 1000kg (10kN) isn't too bad if you run the numbers. You lose 50% in the knot. As an engineering principle, a safety factor of 5 is acceptable for human loads. Thus, in theory, a 100kg person can hang on it. This would rule you out, of course. ;-) That said, typically, 6 mm a...
by Kosta
11 Jan 2019, 22:05
Forum: Gear questions, suggestions and reviews
Topic: What's in your rescue kit?
Replies: 5
Views: 185

Re: What's in your rescue kit?

I think, there isn't much of a point in copying someone's gear list. The gear you carry must match your skills. There is little point in carrying an item if you haven't practised its application. And conversely, there's little point in practising a method if you're not prepared to carry the gear it ...
by Kosta
16 Sep 2018, 13:27
Forum: Technique, ropework and skill development
Topic: Rescue knife: yes or no?
Replies: 15
Views: 721

Re: Rescue knife: yes or no?

I'm not 100% sure what type of rope it was and what history it had. It was an old piece that T2 had lying around. But looking at it, I'd say it's 9 mm, probably a Tendon static. The knife was a Petzl Spatha like the one in this picture: http://myblades.eu/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/petzl-spatha-s-kn...
by Kosta
16 Sep 2018, 09:35
Forum: Technique, ropework and skill development
Topic: Rescue knife: yes or no?
Replies: 15
Views: 721

Re: Rescue knife: yes or no?

Yesterday, at T2's fiddle stick introduction, we managed to do a couple tests for cutting a loaded rope. We did three tests: 1) Cutting it as you would deliberately cut a rope. The knife went through easily. I needed two cuts, but if the first one was a bit more determined, I'm sure one would have d...
by Kosta
10 Sep 2018, 11:21
Forum: Technique, ropework and skill development
Topic: Rescue knife: yes or no?
Replies: 15
Views: 721

Re: Rescue knife: yes or no?

It seems, that the main concern about a knife is less its usefulness but the potential danger of inadvertently cutting the rope.

I might do some testing with an old piece of rope to see how fast it actually gets cut through.
by Kosta
31 Aug 2018, 09:11
Forum: Technique, ropework and skill development
Topic: Rescue knife: yes or no?
Replies: 15
Views: 721

Rescue knife: yes or no?

Hi, I've long been a supporter of carrying a knife with me during abseils and making sure I'm able to access and open it with only one hand so I can cut myself loose in case I get stuck by some hair in my descender or if the self belay catches in a precarious situation where I don't want to muck aro...
by Kosta
30 Aug 2018, 12:02
Forum: Technique, ropework and skill development
Topic: Advanced ropework: Fiddlestick retrievable abseiling anchor
Replies: 10
Views: 717

Re: Advanced ropework: Fiddlestick retrievable abseiling anchor

Have you encountered any problems with pulldowns of the fiddlestick in regard to trees, branches, rocks etc. With a rope pulldown it tends to flow around most obstacles. As T2 said, the stick comes out of the knot with a bit of speed. I once had it happen on Kalang Falls, that the stick shot out of...
by Kosta
30 Aug 2018, 11:09
Forum: Technique, ropework and skill development
Topic: Advanced ropework: Fiddlestick retrievable abseiling anchor
Replies: 10
Views: 717

Re: Advanced ropework: Fiddlestick retrievable abseiling anchor

Re the Imlay system, I have used it and I think it's fine. With the Smooth Operator, I've never seen it move and therefore have the safety 'biners do much. Mostly I like that it provides psychological security for the group. I then happily go down last. I do think there's benefit to not having to p...
by Kosta
25 Jun 2018, 12:38
Forum: Technique, ropework and skill development
Topic: Abseiling riddle
Replies: 11
Views: 843

Re: Abseiling riddle

Just wondering: has anyone ever tried to tear apart a rope to make a longer cord? When you look at a rope, it is made out or a few dozen or so individual strands. Each of which should be strong enough to serve as a pull cord. Thus, we could take 2 m or so of rope and manufacture a 20m pull cord out ...
by Kosta
25 Jun 2018, 11:24
Forum: Technique, ropework and skill development
Topic: Abseiling riddle
Replies: 11
Views: 843

Re: Abseiling riddle

T2, if the pull isn't 100% clean, we could combine our approaches: cut just enough rope to get over the edge. Then add your Pack-block anchor right there. The advantage would be, that the first pitch could be close to 30 m whereas the second can be as long as the length of the remaining rope. This a...
by Kosta
25 Jun 2018, 09:15
Forum: Technique, ropework and skill development
Topic: Abseiling riddle
Replies: 11
Views: 843

Re: Abseiling riddle

My first solution was, that it was impossible to get down safely and the correct answer is to use the PLB and wait for help. But then I figured something that I would consider practical and safe. Don't scroll further if you don't want to read it. First, cut the rope into a 10 m and 20 m piece. Measu...
by Kosta
04 Jun 2018, 21:51
Forum: Technique, ropework and skill development
Topic: Thoughts on single rope techniques and releasable anchors
Replies: 25
Views: 1681

Re: Thoughts on single rope techniques and releasable anchors

Sharp edges are always something to look out for and if possible avoid by placing the rope strategicly when going over the edge. I agree, if it is unavoidable, then having double rope adds safety. I wouldn't necessarily put a stein knot in though. The reason is, that if the rope is loose, you can mo...
by Kosta
04 Jun 2018, 15:24
Forum: Technique, ropework and skill development
Topic: Thoughts on single rope techniques and releasable anchors
Replies: 25
Views: 1681

Re: Thoughts on single rope techniques and releasable anchors

The previous posts make it sound like there is toss-and-go (the classic double rope technique) and one version of SRT. However, there are many different versions of SRT and they all have different purposes and use cases. Thus, when we talk about using SRT, we should also specify what we are doing an...
by Kosta
01 Jun 2018, 11:15
Forum: General discussion
Topic: Crap collected from canyons
Replies: 3
Views: 361

Re: Crap collected from canyons

This is my collection from a Claustral trip a few years back. https://fatcanyoners.org/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/p1030160.jpg On my very first trip through Claustral, we found a bag full of rotten food (rice crackers and the like) at the top of the Black Hole abseil. It was mouldy and stank horribl...
by Kosta
30 May 2018, 16:42
Forum: General discussion
Topic: Publishing details of wilderness / remote canyons
Replies: 9
Views: 665

Re: Publishing details of wilderness / remote canyons

My take is to not add information about little or not described canyons. If the canyon already has a proper write up in Jamison's book, people can go nuts and add more details as much as they like. If, however, the canyon only has a grid reference or is completely unknown, I would keep it this way. ...